SERVES 4 TIME: 40 MINUTES
Healthy and quick for taco night...
GRILLED/BAKED HAWAIIAN KANPACHI TACOS
Part: Fish Tail
Though this dish originated in coastal Mexico. However, when one is this close to the ocean, as we are in Hawaii, Fish Tacos are an essential dish to make. But then again, it might only be an excuse for me to create it, as I am a sucker for anything Mexican. With so many fish and seafood options, the question is: What fish is best to use for fish tacos?
The general answer might be: Fish that comes fresh off the boat the same day you are making them.
My answer: Hawaiian Kanpachi
Here is why: I like consistency in my fish tacos and Hawaiian Kanpachi delivers every time. It is responsibly raised not caught, therefore, it’s available all year-round. Because of this fish’s abundant fat content, it can take on more aggressive seasoning of chili powder and cumin that I like, while retaining its personality when cooked. It is very forgiving and adaptable to whatever cooking method I choose. I have cooked it on a scorching skillet and a hot grill with impeccable results.
The other question is should it be on the bone or a filet?
My preference is, on the bone of course. The reason I opt for the bone-in tail portion of the fish is because there are no pin bones protruding into the flesh and is effortless to pick off the bone when cooked. Also, the whole cooked tail makes for an impressive presentation.
For this delicious dish, you will need warm corn tortillas, preferably homemade, and a salsa of your choosing. Because we have access to local tropical products here in Hawaii, grilled pineapple salsa is a delicious accompaniment. I also like to add something colorful and crunchy like the topping of pickled red cabbage and Maui Sweet Onion. Then to finish, I add fresh cilantro leaves and sliced green onions on top.
Serve tacos with a frosty mug of island lager, perhaps a Mai Tai, or perhaps, both.
- Chef Vitaly Paley
INGREDIENTS
1 ½ lb Kanpachi bone-in fish tail (or sub 1-pound skin-on Kanpachi filet)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp ground chili powder
1 tsp ground cumin
12 to 16 corn tortillas (recipe below)
Grilled pineapple salsa (recipe below)
Red Cabbage and Maui Sweet Onion “Quickles” (recipe below)
Several picked cilantro leaves for garnish
2 to 3 scallions, sliced thin
Several lemon wedges
THE PROCESS (GRILLED)
Preheat the grill to high. Score the tail by cutting all the way through to the bone across the skin two to three times depending on how long the tail is with each cut being about an inch apart. Repeat on the opposite side. You are doing this so the tail cooks quicker inside without burning the skin. Rub the Kanpachi tail all over with 1 tablespoon of olive oil, season generously with salt and pepper, then rub chili and cumin on both sides. Place the tail on the hot part of the grill and cook undisturbed for about three minutes. Using thongs, turn the tail over and repeat the process. Test for doneness by trying to pull a little of the flesh away from the bone at the thickest place. If it comes off easily, the tail is ready to serve. If it does not, cook on both sides for additional minute or so per side. If you have a probe thermometer, test for doneness by inserting into the middle of the thickest part of the tail. It should read about 145F for the fish flake of easily.
When done, transfer to platter, garnish with a several cilantro sprigs, few scallion slices, then drizzle with remaining olive oil, squeeze one or two lemon wedges all over and serve right away with warm tortillas with “Quickles”, pineapple salsa, the rest of scallions, cilantro, and lemon wedges.
THE PROCESS (BAKED)
Preheat the oven to 400F. Score the tail by cutting all the way through to the bone across the skin two to three times depending on how long the tail is with each cut being about an inch apart. Repeat on the opposite side. You are doing this so the tail cooks quicker inside without burning the skin. Place an oven proof skillet, preferably cast iron, on a stove top burner and set it on high. While the pan is getting hot, rub the Kanpachi tail all over with 1 tablespoon of olive oil, season generously with salt and pepper, then rub chili and cumin on both sides.
Carefully place the tail into the hot skillet. Let it cook on stove top for about a minute then using oven mitts, transfer the skillet into the preheated oven. Cook undisturbed till the skin browns a bit on outside and fish cooked inside, about 15 minutes. If the skin is not brown and crispy, turn the tail over and by the time you take the pan out and transfer it to a platter, it will get the color it needs. Test for doneness by trying to pull a little of the flesh away from the bone at the thickest place. If it comes off easily, the tail is ready to serve. If it does not, cook on both sides for additional minute or so per side. If you have a probe thermometer, test for doneness by inserting into the middle of the thickest part of the tail. It should read about 145F for the fish flake of easily.
When done, transfer to platter, garnish with a several cilantro sprigs, few scallion slices, then drizzle with remaining olive oil, squeeze one or two lemon wedges all over and serve right away with warm tortillas, quickles, pineapple salsa, the rest of scallions, cilantro, and lemon wedges.
Quick Pickled Red Cabbage and Maui Sweet Onions "Quickles"
INGREDIENTS
½ small head red cabbage, dark outer leaves removed, core trimmed, and sliced thin
½ head large, sweet onion, peeled and sliced thin
Juice of two lemons
1 teaspoon chili flakes
1 tablespoon kosher salt
THE PROCESS
Assemble all ingredients in a large shallow bowl. Use your hands to mix and massage cabbage and onions until you feel they have started wilting. Place plastic wrap directly on the mixture, weigh it down with a small plate and refrigerate for an hour or two. You can make these pickles a day in advance, but I think the vegetables loose much of their crunch and not taste as fresh.
Grilled Pineapple Salsa
INGREDIENTS
1 poblano pepper
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
½ of medium ripe pineapple, peeled, cut in half, core removed
Juice of one lemon
½ bunch scallion, washed, dried, roots trimmed, sliced thin
½ bunch cilantro, leaves picked, washed, dried, roughly chopped
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Granulated Sugar (optional)
THE PROCESS (GRILL)
Preheat the grill to hot. Place the poblano directly on the grill grates. Let it cook for about a minute, using tongs give it a quarter turn, and cook for another minute. Continue turning and cooking until the skin has charred and blackened uniformly all around. Place the pepper in a heat-proof bowl wrap with plastic wrap allowing it to steam and cool slightly.
Rub the pineapple all over with olive oil. Grill pineapple on all sides till slightly charred, 2 to three minutes to per side. When done, transfer the grilled pineapple to a plate or another flat surface to cool.
While pineapple is cooling, peel the pepper, remove, and discard the seeds. Dice poblano into quarter inch pieces and transfer into mixing bowl. When pineapple has cooled enough to handle, dice it into about quarter inch pieces. Add the lemon juice, the scallion and cilantro. Season generously with salt and pepper and mix till all ingredients are well incorporated. Give it a taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Depending on how sweet the pineapple is you may want to add a little sugar to balance the salsa. When done, cover the salsa with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve. It can be made several of hours in advance, but it tastes best when served relatively soon after it is made.
THE PROCESS (OVEN)
Blacken the poblano over an open burner. Using tongs, give it a quarter turn until blackened uniformly. If you have an electric stovetop, roast the peppers in the oven at 350° F until the skins brown and loosen, about 30 minutes. Place in a heat-proof bowl wrap with plastic wrap allowing them to steam and cool slightly. Peel the peppers, remove, and discard the seeds and set the pepper aside. To cook pineapple, set a skillet, preferably cast iron, on a burner. Turn it to high. Rub the pineapple with olive oil all over and cook on all sides till slightly charred, 2 to three minutes to per side. When done, transfer the cooked pineapple to a plate or another flat surface to cool.
While pineapple is cooling, peel the pepper, remove, and discard the seeds. Dice poblano into quarter inch pieces and transfer into mixing bowl. When pineapple has cooled enough to handle, dice it into about quarter inch pieces. Add the lemon juice, the scallion and cilantro. Season generously with salt and pepper and mix till all ingredients are well incorporated. Give it a taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Depending on how sweet the pineapple is you may want to add a little sugar to balance the salsa. When done, cover the salsa with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve. It can be made several of hours in advance, but it tastes best when served relatively soon after it is made.
Fresh Corn Tortillas (Makes 10 small tortillas)
Homemade tortillas are well worth the effort. When you see how easy to make and how tasty freshly made tortillas are, you will never buy another tortilla again.
If you can get your hands on a tortilla press, get it. It will be that much easier to make these. A well-seasoned cast iron skillet or a griddle is best to use but a good nonstick pan will work too.
To prevent tortillas from sticking while pressing, I use a resealable plastic bag that I cut in half. You can also press the tortillas between two sheets of waxed paper:
INGREDIENTS
1 cup masa harina corn flour
Pinch of kosher salt
1 cup warm water
THE PROCESS
In a medium size bowl, mix salt into masa. Pour in the warm water and mix until well incorporated and the dough forms a ball. Cover it with plastic and let the dough rest at room temperature while the skillet is getting hot. For best results, you want the skillet extremely hot, almost smoking.
When ready to cook, pinch off a little dough and roll between your palms into about a golf ball sized ball. Using a tortilla press lined with two pieces of plastic bag or waxed paper, press the dough into about a 4-inch circle. If you do not have a tortilla press, you can use two flat dinner plates instead. Carefully transfer the tortilla to a hot skillet. Cook undisturbed until the top bubbles slightly, about a minute. Using a metal spatula flip the tortilla over and cook for another minute or so. When done, transfer to a plate or a tortilla serving basket. Cover with a towel to keep warm. Repeat with the rest of the dough.
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